Coat



Patented July 27, 1937 UNTEB STATES accessi COAT Otto F. Weisend, Columbus, Ohio, assigner of one-half to Edward Miller, Columbus, Ohio Application February 24, 1936, Serial No. 65,178

2 Claims.

The object of this invention is to provide an improved construction oli coat in which the upper back portion is normally maintained. in a smooth and unrurnpled condition, and the tail or lower portion of the back at the rump of the wearer normally maintained in a spread condition.

As well known the rump of the human body is curved or rounded from the spine both laterally and rearwardly. It is therefore more particularly an object of this invention to provide the back with an improved construction tending to maintain that part of the coat with spreading or flaring effect outward from the line around the top of the rump so as to cause the tail portion normally to hang gracefully below and at the same time prevent normal movement of the tail portion, as when the wearer is Walking, from disturbing or rumpling the back above. Other objects will appear from the description.

The invention is embodied in the example herein shown and described, the features of novelty being fully claimed.

In the accompanying drawing* Figure l is an elevational view of the back o1 the coat according to the invention.

Fig. 2 is an elevation of the side of the coat.

Fig. 3 is a fraction of the back piece showing the same gathered on an arched line to effect a o narrowing of the cloth.

Fig. 4 is a similar view showing an arched stay strip applied along the gathered arch line or region of the cloth.

Fig. 5 is a similar View showing an arched belt 35 sewed to the back and covering the stay piece.

Fig. 6 is a vertical section on a larger scale on the line VI--VI Fig. 5.

The back piece I0 of the coat can be made as a single piece from the top to the lower end of ,10 the tail or of two pieces, as usual, stitched together vertically at the middle of the back by ordinary stitching, as indicated by broken line I0a in Fig. l. Before sewing the back piece into the garment the material, after the usual wet shrinking of the cloth, is contracted at the region just above the rump by gathering it on an upwardly arched line, as indicated at Il Fig. 3. This gathering of the cloth can be effected by means of a sewing machine employing what is termed a gathering stitch attachment, but such gathering of the cloth can be done by hand sewing. The eiTect of this gathering is to narrow, and to some extent stiien the cloth, the latter according to the Vnumber of such lines ernployed.

After stitching by gather-stitching said back piece, as described, there is applied, as herein shown, to said piece a stay strip i3 or other suitable reinforcing material, said reinforcing piece being arched to substantially coincide with the arch of the gathering stitches, as shown in Fig. 4. This strip l2 is cut so that its lower edge is somewhat longer than its upper edge and said strip l2 is ysewed by stitching i3 in a spread out condition and a corresponding spreading out of the fabric o1" the coat piece below the gathering stitching to thereby accentuate and maintain a bulged condition of the upper portion of the tail of the coat. The stay strip i2, instead of being sewed to the outer side of the coat fabric, as shown, can be sewed inl like manner to the inner side of the back of the coat with the cloth next to it spread out.

After the staying strip has been applied, as indicated, an arched belt I4, usually of the same material and pattern as that of 'the back of the coat, is applied by stitching in a manner to cover the stay piece or the stitches thereof, as shown in Fig. 6. The belt I4 cooperates with the stay piece Whether the latter be at the outer or inner face of the back of the coat in maintaining the bulged. condition of the back at the top of the tail portion of the coat below the gathering stitching. Indeed if the fabric of the back be of suitably tight weave or material reliance can be had on the belt lli and gathering stitching alone to produce and maintain the bulge of the tail portion of the coat.

Some pleating in the back would not interfere with the incorporation of the present invention in the coat.

It will be observed that with this construction of the back of the coat ordinary movements of the tail portion are not communicated to the upper porton of the back, the stifening afforded by the arch and its location serving in a large measure to intercept such communication and leaving the upper back in a normal and unrumpled condition.

The forms of the parts can be changed without departing from the gist of the invention as claimed.

What I claim is:

l. A coat having in the region of the middle of its back portion an arched line of gathering stitches extending in a generally horizontal direction across the small of the back, thereby producing a fulness below said line, and a flexible reinforcing member arched conformably to said line of stitches and secured to said back portion at said fulness and in substantially a Zone parallel to said gathering stitches.

2. A coat having in its back portion in the region of its middle an arched line of gathering stitches extending in a generally horizontal direction across the small of the back, thereby producing a bluge in said back portion below said arched line of stitches and a flexible reinforcing member for said bulge arched conformably With said line of gathering stitches and secured to the outer'side of said back portion in substantially a zone parallel to said line of gathering stitches, and an arched belt of the same material as that of the back portion superimposed on and secured to said reinforced bulge.

OTTO F. WEISEND. 

